Kerala Backwaters Houseboat Guide: Alleppey, Kumarakom and Karimeen

The backwaters of Kerala are a network of lakes, rivers and canals near the coast. Coconut palms, rice fields and small villages line the water. One of the most relaxing ways to see them is on a houseboat.

Where to go

• Alappuzha (Alleppey) – the most popular base, with the most houseboats and the widest choice.
• Kumarakom – on the other side of Vembanad Lake, quieter, with resorts and a bird sanctuary.

What is a kettuvallam?

Kerala houseboats are based on the kettuvallam, a traditional boat once used to carry rice and spices. These boats were made of wooden planks tied together with coir (coconut fibre) rope, without nails. Today’s houseboats add bedrooms, a kitchen and a sitting deck, but many keep the old woven-roof style.

Day cruise or overnight?

• Day cruise – a few hours on the water, usually with lunch. Good if you are short on time.
• Overnight stay – check in around midday, cruise until late afternoon, then the boat is moored for the night. Dinner and breakfast are usually included.

Houseboats are generally not allowed to cruise after dark, so overnight boats stop and anchor in the evening. Ask your operator for the exact schedule.

What to eat on board

Meals are cooked fresh on the boat, usually Kerala-style rice with curries, fish fry and vegetables. Look out for:

• Karimeen pollichathu – pearl spot fish coated in spicy masala, wrapped in banana leaf and pan-cooked.
• Appam with stew – soft, lacy rice pancakes with a mild coconut stew.
• Kerala fish curry – tangy and red, made with kudampuli (Malabar tamarind).

If you have special food needs, tell the operator when you book. Many boats will cook vegetarian meals.

Booking tips

• Book with a licensed operator, and check recent reviews.
• Ask what is included: meals, AC hours, route and check-in/out times.
• Check for life jackets on board.
• Prices rise in December, January and on long weekends, so book early.

Best time to visit

October to February is pleasant and dry. The monsoon (June to September) is green and beautiful but rainy. If you visit in August, look out for the Nehru Trophy Boat Race on Punnamada Lake near Alleppey, famous for its long snake boats.

Cover photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0 (source).