Monasteries of Ladakh: Thiksey, Hemis and a Trip to Pangong Lake

Ladakh is a high, dry mountain region in the far north of India. Its valleys are dotted with Buddhist monasteries, called gompas, many built on hilltops above the villages. Visiting a few of them is one of the best ways to understand Ladakhi life and culture.

First, rest in Leh

Leh sits at about 3,500 m (11,500 ft). If you fly in, rest for at least the first full day, drink plenty of water and avoid hard exercise. This helps your body adjust and lowers the risk of altitude sickness.

Monasteries near Leh

Thiksey

About 19 km from Leh, Thiksey Monastery climbs up a hill in white-and-red tiers, and is often compared to the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Inside is a large statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha. Go early to see the morning prayers, usually around sunrise.

Hemis

Hemis, about 45 km from Leh, is one of the largest and best-known monasteries in Ladakh. It has a good museum. The Hemis Festival, held every year in June or July, features masked dances in the courtyard.

Shey

Shey Palace, on the way to Thiksey, was once a summer palace of Ladakh’s kings. It has a large seated Buddha statue and good views over the Indus Valley.

Further away

• Diskit, in the Nubra Valley, with a giant Maitreya statue facing the valley.
• Lamayuru, about 125 km west of Leh, set among strange, eroded “moonland” hills.
• Alchi, known for its very old wall paintings.

A trip to Pangong Lake

Pangong Tso is a long, high lake that changes colour from deep blue to turquoise during the day. It is about 160 km from Leh by road, over the Chang La pass, and lies at about 4,350 m. Most people stay one night in a camp or guesthouse by the lake. Nights are very cold, even in summer.

Permits

Some areas of Ladakh, including Pangong and the Nubra Valley, need a permit. Rules can change, so check the latest requirements with the Leh district administration or your hotel before you travel. Many hotels and travel agents in Leh can help arrange permits.

Monastery etiquette

• Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees.
• Walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels.
• Ask before taking photos, especially of monks and inside prayer halls.
• Keep your voice low during prayers. There is usually a small entry fee.

Best time to visit

June to September is the main season, when roads are open and days are mild. Winter is very cold, and many roads and guesthouses close.

Driving to Ladakh? Read our Manali to Leh road trip guide.

Cover photo: Bernard Gagnon / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0 (source).