Varanasi Travel Guide: Ganga Aarti, Ghats, Boat Rides and Lassi

Varanasi, also called Kashi or Banaras, sits on the banks of the Ganges in Uttar Pradesh. It is one of the oldest living cities in the world and one of the holiest places in Hinduism. Life here happens on the ghats, the long stone steps that lead down to the river.

Watch the evening Ganga Aarti

Every evening, priests perform the Ganga Aarti, a prayer to the river, at Dashashwamedh Ghat. They wave large brass lamps in time with bells, chants and conch shells. It starts around sunset, so the time changes with the season.

• Arrive 30–45 minutes early to get a good spot on the steps.
• For a different view, watch from a boat on the river.
• Keep your phone and wallet safe in the crowd.

For a quieter experience, go to Assi Ghat in the early morning, where a morning aarti and music programme is held around sunrise.

Take a sunrise boat ride

A boat ride at dawn is one of the best things to do in Varanasi. The light is soft, the river is calm, and you can see the whole line of ghats waking up. Agree on the price and the route with the boatman before you get in.

Walk the ghats and the old lanes

There are more than 80 ghats along the river. You can walk between many of them. Behind the ghats is a maze of narrow lanes (galis) full of small temples, shops and food stalls.

Manikarnika Ghat is the main cremation ghat. It is a sacred place for families, so be respectful, do not take photos, and politely refuse anyone who asks for money to “show” it to you.

Visit the temples

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is the most important temple in the city. Phones and bags are usually not allowed inside, so use the lockers nearby. Expect queues on festival days.

About 10 km away is Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon. It makes an easy half-day trip.

What to eat

• Lassi served in a clay cup (kulhad), often topped with thick malai. Blue Lassi, near Manikarnika, and Pahalwan Lassi, near Lanka, are both popular.
• Kachori-sabzi and jalebi for breakfast.
• Tamatar chaat, a tangy tomato chaat found mostly in Varanasi.
• Malaiyyo, a light, airy milk dessert sold only on winter mornings.
• Banarasi paan after a meal.

How to reach

• By air: Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport is about 25 km from the city centre.
• By train: Varanasi Junction and Banaras station are well connected to Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and other cities.
• Getting around: use auto-rickshaws or e-rickshaws to reach the old city, then walk.

Best time to visit

October to March is the most pleasant time. Dev Deepawali, usually in November, is a special time, when the ghats are lit with thousands of lamps. Summers (April to June) are very hot, and in the monsoon the river can rise and cover some ghats.

Cover photo: Sujay25 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0 (source).