Jodhpur Travel Guide: Mehrangarh Fort, the Blue City and Mirchi Vada

Jodhpur, in western Rajasthan, is often called the Blue City because of the blue-painted houses in its old town. Above them, on a rocky hill, stands Mehrangarh Fort, one of the largest forts in India.

Mehrangarh Fort

Rao Jodha founded Mehrangarh in 1459. The fort sits on a hill about 120 metres above the city, with thick walls and huge gates. Inside are carved palaces and a museum with old paintings, weapons, palanquins and royal cradles.

• Go in the morning to avoid the heat and the biggest crowds.
• An audio guide is available and helps explain the history.
• The walls give the best views of the blue old city below.

Why is the city blue?

People give several reasons. Some say the blue was first used by Brahmin families. Others say the colour keeps homes cooler in the hot desert sun, or that the paint helps keep insects away. Whatever the reason, walking through the blue lanes below the fort, especially around Navchokiya, is a highlight.

More places to see

• Jaswant Thada – a white marble memorial built in 1899, a short walk from the fort.
• Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park – walking trails with desert plants next to Mehrangarh.
• Ghanta Ghar (Clock Tower) and Sardar Market – a busy market for spices, textiles and souvenirs.
• Umaid Bhawan Palace – a grand 20th-century palace. Part of it is a museum; the rest is a hotel and royal residence.
• Toorji ka Jhalra – a restored old stepwell in the old city.

What to eat

• Mirchi vada – a large green chilli stuffed with spiced potato, dipped in gram-flour batter and fried. Janta Sweet Home is one well-known place to try it.
• Pyaaz kachori – a flaky fried pastry filled with spiced onion.
• Makhaniya lassi – a thick, sweet lassi, often with saffron and cardamom.
• Mawa kachori – a sweet kachori filled with milk solids and dipped in syrup.

How to reach

Jodhpur has an airport and a major railway station, Jodhpur Junction, with trains from Delhi, Jaipur, Mumbai and other cities. In the old city, it is easiest to walk or take an auto-rickshaw, as the lanes are narrow.

Best time to visit

October to March is the best time, when days are warm and nights are cool. From April to June, temperatures can go above 40°C, so plan sightseeing for early morning and evening.

Cover photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0 (source).